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Bear Crochet.
We will need:
1. YarnArt "Suede" (100% polyamide, 135 m/50 g)-60 g, hook 3 mm. You can use absolutely any thread, both fluffy and smooth, from any yarn this teddy bear will look wonderful.
2. For cap and scarf – Adelia "Valeri" (50% Acrylic, 50% wool, 146 m/50 g)-20 g, circular or hosiery spokes 3.5 mm, for leaves and spout-"Iris" from Vita Cotton (100% cotton double merserization, 125 m/20 g)-A little black, gold, orange, beige and Red color, hook 1 mm.
3. Filler (hollofayber).
4. Pins, washers and discs, size depends on your density of knitting and used threads, I have discs with diameter 18 mm (5 pcs) for the upper legs (4 pieces), 30 mm (8 SBN) for the lower legs and head (6 pcs.) You can use any other convenient way for you to fasten.
5. Wooden Cap Bead (I have a diameter of 10 mm beads), transparent adhesive.
6. Eyes (I have a diameter of 9 mm), a cord suede width of 3 mm for the decoration of the eyelids.
7. Optionally – dry pastel for toning, you can tint any other way you want.
When using these materials, the teddy bear is 20 cm tall.
Reduce:
No-scale column
UB – Ubroka (2 to get together)
D – Increase (knit 2 from one)
SS-Connecting Column
VP-Air Loop
Semi-stacked with scale
С1N – Single-scale column
С2N – Two-scale column
Retreat for newbies, knit correctly:
The toy is knitted on a spiral, without connecting columns and loops lifting.
The description of knitting of the given toy is made proceeding from that the beginning of a row during knitting of all detail does not shift and passes a flat line, but as we knit on a spiral, without loops of a lifting and a connecting column, the beginning of a series will move to the right, Therefore, every 4-5 of the series must be tied at the end of the row by an additional column of displacement, so that the beginning of the series again appeared in the same place. These additional columns are not considered in the series description.
With this way of presenting the description you will always know where exactly should you get a raise or a decrease, and the elbow/knee always appears exactly where they should be. The shift of the beginning of a row at knitting on a spiral can differ for different yarn and at different density of knitting, therefore the alignment of a marker makes the description universal-from any yarn, in any hands it will turn out such detail, what it should be.
Stage 1. Upper and lower legs.
Top Legs
The series start marker in this part can not be aligned.
1 row: 2 VP, in the first loop 6 SBN (6)
2 row: D x 6 (12)
3 row: (d, 3 SBN) x 3 (15)
4-5 rows (2 rows): 15 SBN (15)
6 row: 6 SBN, UB x 2, 5 SBN (13)
7-20 Series (14 rows): 13 SBN (13)
Fill the foot with filler, not densely (the paw should be soft and easy to bend). Retreat the two rows down and insert the pin with the disc (so that the 6th row is looked forward). I have a disc with a diameter of 18 mm. The desired diameter of the disk is defined as follows: Fold the foot in half and choose a disc that occupies the entire interior space legs, without stretching the canvas.
You can insert a wire frame into the foot.
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Note: To legs densely adjoin to a body, it is necessary to choose correctly diameter of a disk-it should be equal to width legs in a place of fastening. Do not fill too strongly the top part of a legs, it should be flat-then limbs will look a continuation of a body, instead of separate, unrelated to it details.
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21 row: UB x before closing the hole.
The thread is fixed, trimmed, and the tip is spun. The second paw is knit similarly. Please note that you should have the right and left legs.
Lower Legs
The marker of the beginning of a series passes in the middle of a heel.
1 row: 5 VP, from the second loop from the hook: D, 2 SBN, 4 in the first loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 SBN, OL (12)
2 row: D x 2, 2 SBN, D x 4, 2 SBN, D x 2 (20)
3 row: 8 SBN, D, 2 SBN, D, 8 SBN (22)
4-5 Series (2 rows): 22 SBN (22)
6 row: 5 SBN, UB, SBN, UB, 2 SBN, UB, SBN, UB, 4 SBN, UB (Capture the next row, transfer marker) (17)
7th row: 4 SBN, UB, SBN, 3 sbn together, SBB, UB, 4 SBN (13)
8 row: 5 SBN, 3 sat together, 5 SBN (11)
9 row: 11 SBN (11)
10 row: 5 SBN, 3 per one, 4 SBN, OL (14)
11th Row: Ave, 4, D, Sat, D, 6 SBN (17)
12 row: 7 SBN, D, SBN, Ave, 7 SBN (19)
13-15 Series (3 rows): 19 SBN (19)
We select the diameter of the disc: Fold the foot in half and choose a disc that occupies the entire interior space legs, without stretching the canvas. While the fastening is postponed.
16 row: 7 SBN, UB, SBN, UB, 7 SBN (17)
17 Row: 6 SBN, UB, SBN, UB, 6 SBN (15)
Fill the foot with the filler tightly enough. Retreat 3 Rows down, 4 loops from the marker to the right (for the left legs) or left (for the right legs) and insert the pin with the disc (I have a disc diameter of 30 mm). Fill the top part of the legs filler.
Left foot
18 Row: (UB, SBN) x 2, UB, 5 SBN, UB (11)
19 row: SBN, UB x 5 (6)
The threa
Body
The marker of the beginning of series passes in the middle of a backrest.
1 row: 2 VP, in the first loop 6 SBN (6)
2 row: D x 6 (12)
3 row: (d, SBN) x 6 (18)
4 row: SBN, D, (2 SBN, D) x 5, SBN (24)
5 row: (3 SBN, D) x 6 (30)
6 row: 2 SBN, D, (4 SBN, D) x 5, 2 SBN (36)
7 row: (5 SBN, D) x 6 (42 in)
8 row: 3 SBN, D, (6 SBN, D) x 5, 3 SBN (48)
9 row: (7 SBN, D) x 6 (54 in)
10-16 Series (7 rows): 54 (54)
17 row: 3 SBN, UB, 12 SBN, (UB, 4 SBN) x 3, UB, 12 SBN, UB, 3 SBN (48)
18 Row: 48 Rne (48 in)
Insert the stitches of the lower legs between the 7th and 8th rows, 8-9 loops from the marker to the left (for the left legs) and to the right (for the right legs), twist.
19 row: 3 SBN, UB, 12 SBN, (UB, 2 SBN) x 3, UB, 12 SBN, UB, 3 SBN (42)
20 row: 42 Rne (42 in)
21 Row: 3 SBN, UB, 10 SBN, UB, SBN, UB, 2 SBN, UB, SBN, UB, 10 SBN, UB, 3 SBN (36)
22-24 rows (3 rows): 36 (36)
25 row: 2 SBN, UB, (4 SBN, UB) x 5, 2 SBN (30)
26 Row: 30 SBN (30)
Fill the tummy with fillers, you can pour a little glass granulate. Retreat 5 rows down, 9 loops from the marker left (for the left legs) and right (for the right legs)-insert the stitches of the upper legs, twist.
27 Row: (3 SBN, UB) x 6 (24)
28 Row: 24 SBN (24)
29 row: SBN, UB, (2 SBN, UB) x 5, SBN (18)
Fill the body with filler until the end. Insert a pin with a disc to fasten the head (I have a disc with a diameter of 30 mm).
30 Row: (SBN, UB) x 6 (12)31 Row: UB x 6 (6)
The thread is fixed, trimmed, and the tip is spun.
Head
The marker of the beginning of the series passes through the middle of the head.
1 row: 2 VP, in the first loop 6 SBN (6)
2 row: D x 6 (12)
3 row: SBN, D x 3, 4 SBN, D x 3, SBN (18)
4 row: 2 SBN, D x 3, 8 SBN, D x 3, 2 SBN (24)
5 row: 3 SBN, D x 3, 12 SBN, D x 3, 3 SBN (30)
6-8 Series (3 rows): 30 SBN (30)
9 row: 5 SBN, D, 2 SBN, (PR, SBN) х 3, PR х 2, (SBN, D) x 3, 2 sbn, Ave, 5 SBN (40)
10 row: 6 SBN, (d, 2 SBN) x 9, D, 6 SBN (50)
11 Row: 50 SBN (50)
12 row: 9 SBN, D, (5 SBN, D) x 2, 6 SBN, (d, 5 SBN) x 2, D, 9 SBN (56)
13 row: 56 (56)
14 row: 15 SBN, D, 7 SBN, D, 8 sbn, Ave, 7, D, 15 SBN (60)
15-21 Series (7 rows): 60 SBN (60)
22 row: 4 SBN, UB, (8 SBN, UB) x 5, 4 SBN (54)
23 Row: 54 (54)
24 row: (7 SBN, UB) x 6 (48 in)
25 row: 48 (48)
26 Row: 3 SBN, UB, (6 SBN, UB) x 5, 3 SBN (42)
27 Row: (5 SBN, UB) x 6 (36 in)
28 Row: 2 SBN, UB, (4 SBN, UB) x 5, 2 SBN (30)
29 Row: (3 SBN, UB) x 6 (24)
Insert the pin of the body between the 16th and 17th rows, on the marker line, twist. Fill the head with filler.
30 row: SBN, UB, (2 SBN, UB) x 5, SBN (18)
31 Series: (SBN, UB) x 6 (12)
Fill the head with filler until the end.
32 Series: UB X 6 (6)
We fix the thread, cut it.
Ears
The series start marker in this part can not be aligned.
1 row: 2 VP, in the first loop: 6 SBN (6)
2 row: D x 6 (12)
3 row: (d, SBN) x 6 (18)
4-6 rows (3 rows): 18 SBN (18)
Fold the part in half and we bring the 9 down through both canvases.
We fix the thread. The second ear is knit similarly.
Tail
The series start marker in this part can not be aligned.
1 row: 2 VP, in the first loop 6 SBN (6)
2 Series: (d, SBN) x 3 (9)
3 row: 9 SBN (9)
Cut the thread, fix it.
Lower Lip
1 row: 2 VP, in the first Loop 3 SBN (3)
2 row: VP, turn, 3 off (3)
Cut the thread, fix it.
Spout
"Iris" from Vita cotton, hook 1 mm.
1 row: 5 VP, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 3 SBN, 3 in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 SBN, OL (10)
2 row: D, 2 SBN, D x 3, 2 SBN, D x 2 (16)
3 row: SBN, D, 3 SBN, D, (SBN, D) x 2, 3, etc., etc. (22)
4-5 Series (2 rows): 22 SBN (22)
The thread is fastened, trimmed, leaving a small end for the stitching.
Design
On the muzzle of the bear roughly hint points for the eyes and mouth. I have the point of the rotor is located on the 4 rows below from the beginning of knitting near the marker, eyes-between the 8th and 9th rows, between the eyes-4 SBN. The point of the spout is between the 3rd and the 4th rows between the eyes.
Insert the needle in the point of the duck's mouth and bring to the point of the right eye. Retreat the column, insert the needle, output at the point of the rotor, tighten. Repeat the duck several times, tightening the thread. Similarly, we drag the left eye, slightly tighten the points of the eye to each other, forming a bridge.
We print the needle at the point of the rotor. Insert the needle at the point of the nose (thread goes on top of the canvas), output at the point of the rotor, tighten the thread. Repeat the duck a few times, Zkrepyjem duck strong knot, the ends of threads.
Sewing the lower lip (a corner (the beginning of knitting of a lip) put to a point of a duckling of a rotka). Sew a spout, a little stuffed with filler, the same thread can embroider a jumper between the cheeks. The ears are pressed in any position you like, and the tail is nailed.
It is possible to shade a mouth a little and around a peep-hole (I have not tinted a brown bear). Fasten eyes, above and under a Glashkom glue a suede cord-eyelids. It seemed to me that my cord
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