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Yarn from here, 80% alpaca, 20% silk, 100m in 25g. It took about 6 hanks of brown and less than 1 hank of white. The density of knitting on the US 2 knitting needles (2.75 mm) was 28p x 36r = 10x10 cm. 
 

The main part of the skirt is connected according to the Clue 5 scheme from the first page. All the even rows are knitted in purses, if you knit on straight needles, or face knitting, if you knit in a circle. Row 169 there is preparatory. Rows 171-176 - the main pattern, rows 177-188 - the transition to the next pattern. Rows 171-176 I repeated 8 times. 
Then I knitted according to the scheme 6a and 6b from the second page. It shows a series of 220, in which the checkboxes denote "knit over the front and back wall" or purl or facial, depending on how you knit. Arches are the closing of the crochet loops, as is often done in napkins. The numbers are how many loops to tie with a half-column together, then 5 air loops and again the loops together. 
I strongly advise you to tie the sample. I knitted large, washed and stretched it according to all the rules of knitting light Azhur (for shawls and the like). Otherwise, it will be very difficult to predict how much the openwork will stretch. For each pattern its density is obtained. I had this: for "fishtails" 3 repetitions in height - 5 cm, 1 repetition in width - 5 cm; final part in height of 10 cm. 
To determine the size of the dress, I took the dress that my daughter fit, and measured it. Total came out: chest girth 52.5 cm, length from the beginning of the openwork part to the shoulder 14 cm, length from the openwork part to the neck of the back 11.5 cm, length to the front neck 9 cm, length to the sleeve cut 2.5 cm, shoulder width 5 cm, neck cut width 10 cm, height of a cut-out of a sleeve is 10 cm, length of a skirt is 28 cm. 
 
All sizes - for my one year old daughter. Of course, it is better to pick up everything for your girls. 
I also want to note (and you can see it in the photos) that the neckline is very loose. We got hot in September and I wanted to ease the dress. If this does not suit you, or you want to make a regular sleeve, not with wings, like mine, then you need to increase the length to the sleeve cutout and reduce the armhole.
Now about the order of knitting. I have everything connected in a circle and there are no stitches anywhere. I recommend so knit - nowhere pulling anything. Just need to take into account that the schemes are given for knitting back and forth and give edge loops and halves of patterns. All this needs to be omitted and knit only the main pattern. 
I started with the auxiliary set and knitted the back and the front together in a circle to armholes. Then I divided the back and before, made a subtraction for armholes and knitted separately. Then she closed the hinges for the necks and turned off the loops to round the necks. Shoulder seams closed on three needles. 
I knitted the back without a fastener and, at the end, I knit the rim of the neck, it was tight, it was too loose. But did not want to bandage. If I knitted again, I would make a buckle on the back and the collar is not solid, but with a slit at the back. 
After the top was ready, I dismissed the auxiliary set and put the loops on the spokes. I added loops to get the right number of loops for the openwork pattern. I had a total of 16 repeats in a circle, 8 in front and 8 in the back. Next, I knitted a pattern of "fish tails" in a circle. 
Then I switched to the schemes for the last part of the hem, knitted all the rows according to the scheme once and closed the hooks with hooks. The diagram gives the option for the last row if you want to close the loops with knitting needles. Then after tying up the pattern, you need to knit several rows of garter stitch and close the loops. 
For sleeves, I looped around the edge of the armhole. Start from where the rounding ends on one side, and finished on the other side in the same place. Then she worked with shortened rows: first row of purl to several loops after the shoulder seam, wrap, turn, second row of faces to several loops after the seam, wrap, turn, and so on. At first I “advanced” several rows on 1 loop after the previous turn, and then I moved on 2 loops. I made the last 4 rows with a garter stitch so that the edge of the sleeve would not twist. 
The final part - the neck. Let me remind you, my option when everything is in a circle is not very successful. I scored white thread around the edge of the neck of the loop, added loops in the next row to get 6 repetitions of the pattern and began to knit from row 199 of the 6a pattern, only inside the triangles I did not knit openwork, but just facial. When looping, take into account the direction of knitting, so that the front side of the collar looks in the right direction. I closed the loop as well as on the hem, hook. 
The last stage was a small planochka on the neck. I scored the main thread on the neck, in the next row I lowered the loops around the curvature to make the plank fit better, and knit some more rows of garter stitch. Loops need to be closed fairly freely. 
After the end of knitting, the dress needs to be brought into a "commodity" look. I soaked a dress in cold water with a special agent for wool, pressed it in a towel, and then in a washing machine (without water, only in spin mode). 
The whole hem of stretch is unreal at once, so I laid it out as I could and pinned the arches along the edge, stretching the very edge of the skirt. When the edge was dry (it took quite a while), I hung the dress on my hanger to dry. When it dried, I otparila it, just with an iron, without touching the canvas, stretching the "fish tails". I otparila a collar separately, pinning each "petal". 
I advise you to practice with the steaming and pinning on the sample, if you have not knit openwork before.